Valencia Trader

Club de Enófilos Tasting

Club de Enófilos Tasting, 6 February 2007

Bodegas Los Frailes, from Fontanars to world fame

By John Maher, VT Wine Correspondent

There were more people than usual at the first Club de Enófilos tasting in February, lured by the wines produced by this family bodega in Fontanars dels Alforins. The bodega’s name (‘los Frailes’ means ‘the Friars’) derives from its having been a Jesuit property until the disentailment of Church land in Spain in the eighteenth century saw the Velázquez family buy it at auction in 1771. They are still there, and have been making and exporting wine ever since. However, it is only in the last seven years or so that the current generation decided to change direction and make fine wine, primarily with the classic Mediterranean varieties Monastrell and Garnacha. This has been a resounding success, with international recognition (Robert Parker: “Another superb Spanish ‘wine value’, the 2004 Casamonfrare Monastrell is ... A big, soft, accessible bistro-style red, it possesses a deep ruby/purple-tinged colour as well as abundant amounts of blackberry and cherry fruit. As the French would say, it is a complete vin de plaisir. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. 87 points”). We in fact tasted the 2005 Casa Mon Frare (100% Monastrell) and then the 2004 (80% Monastrell and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon), both are big and fruity wines which spend only around four months in barrel, retaining a touch of acidity that gives them freshness and bite, the 2004 is given slightly more structure by the Cabernet Sauvignon. They are in popular demand internationally (in the USA, Switzerland, Germany and Denmark, primarily — and Adnams in the UK) and are an absolute bargain here at 3.50 euros (2005) and 4.50 euros (2004).

We then tried the classy ‘Bilogía’ (50% Monastrell and 50% Tempranillo) 2004, which is technically a ‘Crianza’ as it spends 12 months in oak, but the winemakers believe that the labels ‘Crianza’, ‘Reserva’ and ‘Gran Reserva’ are not useful in describing the qualities of wine in general and their wines in particular. This ‘Bilogía’ is a splendid balance of structure, fruit and acidity. The 2004 vintage of the sister wine ‘Trilogía’ (so-called because it is made with three grapes (70% Monastrell, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo) is sold out, but the 2005 is imminent.

There was an unexpected surprise to finish the tasting in the shape of a sweet Monastrell, ‘After Tres’. This naturally sweet red wine (the Monastrell ripened so late that the yeasts can’t turn all the sugar into alcohol) cost 13 euros for a 50cl bottle and works both before a meal as an aperitif and/or at the end (Miguel suggested with strong cheeses).

The applause raised the roof at the end of the tasting, with cries of ‘Bravo’ as well. Miguel Velázquez and his family are doing great things.

Our Wine Correspondent, John Maher, has his own website with information on the different wine types of the Valencian region.  For more information go to www.winesofvalencia.com